kb7dqh wrote:
Quote:
Reminds me of the agencies that used their fleet mechanics to install lighting/communications.
And in the absence of "split loom", and doing this in the "fleet mechanic" shop, rubber fuel line hose, sliced lengthwise would "gitter done"... If passing a large wire through a large enough hole, then a chunk of dead coolant hose could be similarly sliced lengthwise, slipped over the wire, ziptied or electrical taped into place, and together with the fuel line on the sheetmetal, you got wire protection as good if not better than a factory wire pass-through, for next to no money in material and but a few minutes with a sharp knife to create. A squidge of RTV gasket maker on the engine side and it becomes moisture/gas tight!!!
Contrary to rumors to the contrary, "this ain't rocket science" ;)
You're preaching to the choir...
I once had a vehicle come in from an agency who used their mechanics to install...They only outsourced when they were stumped....
'Blows fuse when lightbar activated'....
First thing I do is try the pursuit switch... lights up... but nothing comes on.. OK... so the controller has power...
pop the controller out of the console...
NOTHING hooked up to the high amp outputs...
about 15 butt connectors spliced to other butt connectors daisy chaining down from a 14ga wire to 2 other 16ga wires to 2 other 16ga wires to.. ad nauseum....
All connected to one 14ga wire, tucked into a single 10A position....which they had inserted a 30A fuse into. One of the last strobe lightbars in the fleet... They pulled it from an old unit and mounted it to a new cruiser to save a couple bucks, but opted to use the new controller instead of the old one.
Looked at the controller, the button for it was labelled 'LIGHTS'.....all the other labels were missing/blank..
Not kidding. They had wired THE ENTIRE LIGHTBAR, alleys, low power turn on, front cut off, take down, EVERYTHING to a single 10A circuit, that they replace with a 30A fuse.
They ignored the pursuit switch, which was rated for 3-30A loads, and the 2 - 20A load switches, and used one of the 4 -10A switches...
So I rewired it, standard practice... pursuit switch ,first position for front cutoff (rear only), 2nd position front and rear, 3rd position front/rear and siren.. set the alleys and takedowns on their own switches, you know, the NORMAL way....
Work is signed off for, then get a call back about 30 mins later.. 'lights don't work'...
WTF?!
Got in my rig and drove to their FMD (Fleet Maintenance Division)...
The 'mechanic' is there punching what WAS the 'lights' button, which is now blank, and saying 'nothing works'..... I went over the 'new' options, and said that 'it wasn't the way they did things'.......and started explaining how ALL their cruisers are set up to activate the lights with just one button...
Then I noticed a STACK of what appeared to be brand new controllers sitting in a corner, but with wiring cut off... We're talking a good $800 a piece... and about 20-30 of them just sitting there... looking like someone installed them, then cut the wires and pulled it out.
I asked him what was up with all the controllers sitting over there.....
'Those are crap, we've had nothing but trouble from these things since day one. The fuses they put in them suck. They work for a month or two and then they burn out'...
Weird.....
Curiosity got the better of me, and I started walking around the other cruisers..
ALL of them had the same controller, but newer LED lightbars.....
Every last one of them was completely blank, except for that ONE 10A position that was labelled, you guessed it... 'LIGHTS'...
Then I noticed the
BOXES of 30A fuses....
I started putting everything together.....
They were putting 30A fuses in the 10A position when the 10A fuse blew, which caused the relay to overheat, and fail, and no longer work...
So they ripped out the 'broken' controller and put in a new one....
Now, with an LED lightbar drawing less current, it was more than 10A, but usually less than 20A, so it would take a month or so for the relay to fail, without blowing the 30A fuse...
With the strobe/halogen lightbar, it was drawing far more current, and the 30A fuse was blowing immediately...
Shortly thereafter, they hired trained techs to wire their cars.....